Peter Blake-Pop Art Poster 1968:Morgan Le Faythful (Marianne Faithfull)

So pleased to have finally acquired a copy of this extremely rare issue of The Daily Telegraph Magazine. The cover girl is none other than Marianne Faithfull (just prior to the release of  The Girl on a Motorcycle), striking a comic strip superhero pose in which she is depicted as Morgan Le Faythful. The cover image was designed as a poster for the supplement by British pop artist Peter Blake, who took his inspiration for Marianne's character from the Arthurian legend of Morgan Le Fay. Blake created the image by painting upon an enlargement of a photograph by Hans Feurer and was assisted on the project by his wife, the artist Jann Haworth, who made the dragon and decorated it in fairground colours, she also created the sorceress costume that Marianne is wearing. The finished result which measured 20'' x 30'' was issued for sale through the magazine via mail order for the bargain price of  3s 6d. in april of 1968. Where are they all now I wonder ? 

                                                            
                                                          IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from The Daily Telegraph 10th April, 1968. Discover more about The Girl on the Motorcycle (1968) here. Read an interview with the artist Peter Blake here. More information about the Arthurian legend of Morgan Le Fay here and finally, visit the website of artist Jann Haworth here.

Mary Quant's Ginger Group 1967

A two page editorial first published in September 1967 featuring designs from Mary Quant's Ginger Group,  it also includes guest appearances by The Yardbirds, Georgie Fame, James Fox, Jack Bond, David Mlinaric and Michael Rainey of Hung On You.

England's best-known young designer (Quant? Quite!) changed the face of fashion (she set it on its ears) and still keeps spinning out the news. Now she dips into fresh fields of color, places waistlines at low, hemlines at high. Flipsy Daisy above, comes on strong in the calmest kind of pink- called Bermuda- with a skirt, tucked all around, that looks up in perpetual motion. About $45. Backing it up: The Yardbirds, the cool sound in "Blow Up" and on the epic single "Little Games". 

Football Ripples, above, in a dress pinched from a halfback: Bermuda pink with beige, tucked and pleated to touchdown! in bonded wool jersey, About $50.  Beaming approval is recording star Georgie Fame, Englands Top Pop personality in 1967. His look: a suede and lamb jacket from the Chelsea Antique Market.

Mary Quant cares about the total look, does coats so good you don't mind covering up her dresses! Above, the case for the Costume look. It's basically a coachman coat, and in this super-version of Bermuda pink wool melton, and gold buttons and braid, all roads lead to you. About $100. There's more news in this curly-girl English hairdo; heads may be turning for it soon, About to turn, two young film-makers: James Fox, left, who appeared in Universal's "Thoroughly Modern Millie." Director-producer Jack Bond, right, has explored the world of poets, Dali, women and their wants.

A coat that keeps the most interesting company, above, is this marvelous Tibetan lamb-the kind of fur that warms you without a bit of bulk. The creamy beige color responds to strong suede trim in olive-brown, with nice exaggerations in the collar and belt. Roat of London;about $300. 

Two's company here. At left: young Londoner David Mlinaric, brilliant designer of the nightclub Sibyllas and Michael Rainey, right, designs men's fashions-including psychedelic underwear!

*The suit that Michael Rainey is wearing in this photograph is fairly similar to one that was on sale in his Hung On You boutique around this time, you can view an example of it here in another one of my recent posts.

                                                              
                                                                  PHOTO CREDITS
All images/original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen Magazine, September 1967 photographer: Joseph Santoro.

Vintage Ad: Seventeen Magazine 1967

And why shouldn't your legs be as nutty as the rest of you? Especially when Kayser gives you a choice of over 20 colors in wacky styles of stockings and pantyhose. In fact, you'll probably want to start a collection. You can get pantyhose in fishnet. In opaque colors to mix or match with your clothes. And in great opaque textured fishnet. Stockings are available in opaque and fishnet styles in all the colors you could want. Now on the word go...go nutty. GO.

           (Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen magazine september 1967) 

Clothes to be in Love in - Queen Magazine 1967

This is a four page editorial from Queen Magazine which was first published in november 1967, it has pretty much got it all going on...a rather booze fuelled love affair, furniture by one of the masters of Modernism, clothes and accessories from Quorum, Mary Farrin, Mary Quant, Gucci, Hung On You and Mr Fish, hairstyling is by Leonard of Mayfair! 

                    HUDDLE UP/CUDDLE UP CLOTHES                            

Clothes to be in love in...You'll be so nice to come home to in utterly feminine soft wool, especially if you warm the cockles of his heart with Madeira as the aperitif. You and you wicked ploys...Or look demure in frilly shirt and sumptuous velvet skirt; all sweetness and light and Madeira comfort. Clever you...Quick-change artistry to classic black with Tudor lace at cuffs and collar and bottled Elizabethan charm all the way from the island of Madeira. And you'll be adorable in angora. Cuddle-up and huddle-up and pass the decanter, darling...

Hers, blue knitted angora dress, by Rosalind Yehuda, with silver Lurex threading stripes around the hem, cuffs, under bust and below neck. Silver stockings by Mary Quant. Silver shoes, with high Louis heels, by Charles Jourdan. Round hair slide at Leonard. Rose-coloured glasses by Oliver Goldsmith.

His, navy blue serge double-breasted suit, with white buttons, at Hung On You. White cashmere polo-necked sweater at Turnbull and Asser. Black patent leather moccasins, with silver buckles, by Gucci. Madeira, very dry and light aperitif-Sercial.

Hers, White turtle-necked blouse, white lace jabot in front and lace on sleeves; short black velvet skirt with satin bands on both side, satin covered belt and cut steel buckle; both by Marcel Fenez. Diamond brooch, made in Spain in the eighteenth century, from S. J. Philips. Black stockings by Charnos.

His, black silk tutle-necked Russian shirt from turnbull and Asser. White trousers from Laurence Corner Government Surplus Stores. Coffee table by Marcel Breuer at Aram. Madeira, medium dry-Verdelho.

Hers, maxi-length dress, by Quorum, in black crepe, with glass buttons down front, high sleeves, and white lace at collar and cuffs. Black stockings by Charnos. Black crepe shoes by Charles Jourdan. Enamel rings from S. J. Phillips.

His, white silk ruffled-front dress-shirt; black velvet bow-tie; black silk smoking jacket and white Indian silk handkerchief; all from Turnbull and Asser. Black velvet trousers from Mr Fish. Diamante cuff-links by Felicity Bosanquet. Black patent leather dancing pumps at Lobb. Madeira, medium sweet-Bual.

Hers, backless dress, half-pink, half-white, by Mary Farrin, in fluffy angora, with very high front. Pink silk stockings by Bear brand. Pink crepe shoes, with square paste and pink brilliante buckle, by Charles Jourdan. Hair-styles are by Leonard.

His, long high-necked Prussian-style Indian silk dressing gown in turquoise and mauve paisley design, from Turnbull and Asser. Madeira, rich sweet-Malsmey. Bed-cover in silver PVC by Anderson Manson. Spotted plastic cushions at Presents of Sloane Street. Decanter at Clewes and Makin. 

                                                        
                                                                  PHOTO CREDITS

All images/original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Queen Magazine November 1967, photographs by John Stember.

Vintage Advert: Psychedelic Boutique 1969

Well, the truth is that this is actually an advert for a meat cannery not a psychedelic boutique! However, as a vegetarian and an admirer of 1960s illustration & fashion I just prefer to think of it as such because it's way too beautiful to have been used for its originally intended purpose!

                                                                    IMAGE CREDIT

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International June 1970, illustration by Donald Brun 1969.

Queen Magazine: Vintage Accessories 1969

A four page editorial from Queen Magazine originally published in 1969, suggesting various ways to wear a new range of head scarves, step this way to achieve your most desired look, are you a vamp, a nun, a pirate or a spy?

Fact:  Three-cornered double giselle hood, by Linda Archer Boutique, in black, white, red, green, blue, beige, pink, apricot, flame or lavender.

Figure:  £4 5s, at Simpson, Piccadilly, W1, or by post (2s 6d extra for postage and packing) from Cardogan Postal Service, 43a Wigmore Street, W1.

Fantasy:  Day and/or night suitability cutting down hairdresser's bills; throttling the Postmaster General or....

As a vamp-bring one side round to the other and tie over an ear, then wind a pearl band around your head, tie it and knot it with the hood (the band of pearls ending in tassels, by Adrien Mann, about £7 10s ; from Debenham and Freebody, Wigmore Street, W1.), and add a black rayon georgette cat suit, by Frank Usher, about £22 5s; at Derry and Toms, Kensington High Street, W8 ; pearl and black enamel rings from a selection at the Purple Shop.

As a nun-just put it on your head and leave the ends loose, and add a silver cross set with onyx, about £9 ; from a selection at the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market, King's Road, SW3.

As a pirate-bring one side round to the other and tie over an ear, and add a black satin shirt, single- breasted, buttoning down front, by Ossie Clark, 10gns; at Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3; plus link bracelet in dark brown with gold beading; gilt and brown-stone belt set on black velvet, £15; rings; all from a selection at the Purple Shop; and a stamp with a possible post-budget design fot the PMG's second class mail....

As a spy-bring one side round to the other and tie over an ear, then tie a scarf around your head, and knot it with the hood, and add a round pearl ring ; from a selection ( like the black and white spotted scarf, £10) at the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market...




                                                            PHOTO CREDITS

All images and original text scanned by Sweet jane from Queen Magazine April 1969, photographs by John Vaughan.

Vintage Advert: Lee Jeans 1970

                                                                
                                                                  IMAGE CREDIT 
                    Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International June 1970.

Psychedelic Advert: Milton Glaser

              

                                                                 IMAGE CREDITS

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art, January 1971, illustrations by Milton Glaser.

The Rise and Decline of the Afghan Coat 1966-197?

"You have been in Afghanistan, I perceive," said Holmes to Watson..By intricate process of deduction, Sherlock Holmes laid claim to this note-worthy fact about Dr. Watson the first time the two met. Dr Watson later recorded in his journal that he was astonished by Holmes' perception. He need not have been. Besides his tropic tan, haggered face, injured left arm, and military-medic air, all of which Holmes claimed were dead give-aways, Watson probably was wearing an Afghan coat. (Holmes' whole train of thought didn't take more than a minute which is very suspicious if Watson wasn't wearing a coat). Today, one need not sojourn in Afghanistan to possess an Afghan coat. Without risking a haggered face or injured arm, you can find an authentic assortment in this country. Afghan coats are richly embroidered on the sheepskin side : the fur is worn on the inside. ( Eye Magazine - August, 1968.)

The Afghan coat made its debut appearance onto the London fashion scene in 1966, as the swinging city began to turn its attention towards all things of eastern and asian influence. They were first imported by Craig Sams, who then sold them on through various boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip on the Kings Road, the popularity of the coats increased rapidly after the Beatles had been photographed wearing them. The original imports from the Ghazni province (which is situated between Kabul and Kandahar) were incredibly beautiful and elaborately decorated with hand embroidery by the local artisans. However, as demand expanded globally, they could not keep up a steady supply and eventually crude imitations from other areas began to flood the market..and these were the ones which gave the Afghan coat its undeserved bad reputation, mainly due to the fact that the skins had not been cured properly. This in turn apparently caused the coats to permeate the air around them with an extremely undesirable odour, often combined with the scent of Patchouli oil, which to this day seems to linger on in the memory of anyone who was unfortunate enough to be in close proximity to someone wearing one.

Having said that, regardless of the odour, they continued on to become more than just a fleeting trend and even though their general popularity is now long gone, they have left an indelible mark 0n fashion history and will forever be associated as an integral part of the iconic look of the hippie movement of the 1960s and 1970s. I can't say for definite when their reign as a popular item of clothing officially began to decline, without a doubt the advent of Glam Rock followed by the emerging Punk Scene pretty much killed them off from the mainstream, but I'm sure that there were still a few hippies happily wearing their Afghan's until the end of the seventies. Apart from a brief entry on wikipedia, I couldn't find any other relevant information online at this point in time, but I have included several photographs in this post to give you some idea of the timeline demonstrating their continued popularity over a six year period from their initial introduction in 1966 to 1971. It's also interesting to note that they seem to have been favoured as suitable wedding attire by the male peacock/rock stars of the era, with both David Bowie and Eric Burdon choosing to wear Afghan coats on the 'big day'.  Apart from the coats and jackets in the Eye Magazine feature from 1968, I haven't found any other colour photographs in my personal collection of books or magazines so far, but i'll take another look when I get more time and add them in due course. In the meantime, I've photographed my own Afghan coat which I purchased in the mid 1990s, I haven't worn it in a long time but still can't bear to part with it yet, it's a really lovely one, in great condition considering its age..and it is most definitely not afflicted with the curse of the aforementioned Afghan odour otherwise it would have been offered up as a candidate to the gods of room 101 long ago. 

All from Mallory. Coats, $215; jacket $145. Left to right, under the coats: Peter's turtleneck, Himalaya $17; striped jeans, $7, Brick Shed House, NYC.  Handcraft scarf.  Candy's skirt,$35, Mallory; Crepe blouse, also Mallory, $35. Boots, Golo. Jim's paisley shirt, Michael Webb for Carlyle, $10; corduroy pants, $7, Limbo, NYC. All jewelry, Odyssey Shop, NYC.

I had a quick look to see what the median/mean income of the average unmarried male was in the United States circa 1968, according to the census source it worked out somewhere between $7,132- $8,185 per annum...these particular jackets were definitely not cheap throwaway fashion items, when you consider the fact that they cost over a weeks wage!

                                                                     My own Afghan coat. 
                                   

                                                     Close up detail of my own Afghan coat.

                                                       Embroidery detail on the back of coat.

          Georgie Fame wearing an Afghan jacket from the Chelsea Antique Market, September 1967.

   Afghan coats and waistcoats on display in the window of Dandie Fashions, 161 King's Road, 1967.

           

    Eric Burdon and his wife Angie King at their wedding, September 1967.

                       

Newly-weds David and Angie Bowie on their Wedding day at Bromley Register Office, 20th March 1970.

Bill Wyman, his girlfriend Astrid Lundstrom and his son Stephen (wearing an Afghan jacket) on their way to Sweden for a skiing holiday, 31st december 1970.

Teenage pupils from Holland Park school in London get the 1971 look with Afghan coats, wide sleeved tunic shirts, basket weave bags and jeans.

                          All images scanned by Sweet Jane from the following publications

                                                                     Eye Magazine August 1968

                                                              Seventeen Magazine September 1967

                             Boutique London A History: King's Road to Carnaby Street by Richard Lester

                                          Wild Animals: The Story of The Animals by Andy Blackford

                                                David Bowie Moonage Daydream by Dave Thompson

                                                   The Rolling Stones Unseen Archives by Susan Hill

                             Decades of Fashion The Hulton Getty picture collection by Harriet Worsley

                                                     Afghan Coat photographs taken by Sweet Jane