Wednesday, 25 December 2013

Psychedelic Christmas poster: D.H Evans Oxford Street December 1967

                                                                 IMAGE CREDIT
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Swinging Sixties - Fashion in London and Beyond 1955-1970, by V&A publications. The full sized original poster can be viewed via the V&A online collection here. Illustration by Juliet Glynn Smith.

Tuesday, 24 December 2013

It's a White, White Christmas..Rave Fashion 1967

Be the centre of attention this Christmas by wearing sheer, bright, white! It's the stunning colour that ALWAYS gets you noticed and admired. At parties, on a date, white makes everyone look! Here's RAVE fashion girl Lee's choice of dresses and accessories in pure, pretty white. So make it a white, white christmas. Get dressed from head to toe in the newest rave colour.

White wonderful dresses! On the left, in satin with ribbon shoulder straps, 69s. 11d. from Art Galore, 6 leapale Road, Guildford, Surrey. By post, 2s. 6d. extra. On the right, a chiffon dress with lace trimming on front panel and sleeves, by Simon Ellis, 8½ gns.

Snow white pretty chiffon shirt dress with see-through sleeves and daisy lace trimming, by Seventh Avenue, £5 19s. 6d. For a really cute look, an all-over lace mini dress in nylon, by John Marks, 7½ gns.

Sugar white and just as sweet, two lace dresses in purest white. On the left, a guipure lace shirt dress by Blanes Young Junior range, approx 10½gns. On the right, a Victoriana-style dress with diamanté buttons and frilled collar and cuffs. By Polly Peck, £11 15s.

All things white and wonderful in these two super white party dresses! On the left is a crêpe dress with 'V' neckline and chain belt by Shelana, 5½gns. Dolly types will go for the shirring topped satin dress with coffee coloured lace frills round neck and cuffs, by Art Galore, 5gns.

For special dates, a long dress in nylon seersucker with a band under the bust, by Polly Peck, £9 5s. The long chiffon shift with beaded edging and split side is by Seventh Avenue, 7gns.

                                                                          IMAGE CREDITS
                            All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine, December 1967.


Sunday, 15 December 2013

The Rave Trouser Suit - December 1966

Want to be in the swing of things this winter? Then you must have this fabulous ready-to-wear RAVE trouser suit, in military-style corduroy in either French navy or chocolate brown for only 5gns, postage and packing paid! Complete the form opposite stating your size 10, 12 or 14, and post it, with a cheque or postal order for £5 5s made payable to George Newnes Ltd., to: RAVE Trouser suit offer, 136 Long Acre, London W.C. 99.


                                              IMAGE CREDITS                
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine December 1966. Photograph by P.L. James. Featuring Ace Kefford from The Move.

Saturday, 7 December 2013

Dresses by Polly Peck 1969

It's Courtelle jersey we're talking about. Highly recommended whether you want to live it up or just relax. And especially if you're not quite sure. The printed one is Courtelle single jersey. Fine, light, warm. Very soft and comfortable. The plain one is Courtelle Neospun jersey. Which is beautifully smooth and supple. And they're both washable. Book early to avoid disappointment as they say.

Left: Shirt dress by Polly Peck in Courtelle Neospun jersey. Style 617. About £6.19.  Right: Wild-for-buttons dress by Polly Peck in Courtelle single jersey. Style 6750. About £12. 15.

Left: Pussy-cat-bowed dress by Polly Peck in Courtelle single jersey. Style 6819. About £11. 16. Middle: Belted shirt dress by Polly Peck, in Courtelle single jersey. Style 6748. About £10. 16. Right: Cowl-neck dress by Polly Peck, in Courtelle single jersey. Style 6749. About £12. 15.

                                                                    IMAGE CREDIT
                   All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Flair magazine October 1969, Artist uncredited.


Monday, 2 December 2013

Christmas Clobber From Carnaby Street 1966

                                                                           IMAGE CREDIT
                                  Image scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine December 1966.

Monday, 25 November 2013

Gebrauchsgraphik International Cover Art 1971

Yet another striking cover from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art, this one is from the september 1971 issue.

                                                               IMAGE CREDITS

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art September 1971 B 3149 E. Artist uncredited.

Wednesday, 20 November 2013

I'll Never Forget What's 'Isname: Carol White's Biba Wardrobe 1967

I came across this snippet of information in the february 1968 issue of RAVE earlier this year while reading the "Today's Raves" section of the magazine. And i've been intending to take some screen shots of Carol White wearing her outfits from Biba ever since, I finally got around to it last night, so here they are!

                                                                     TODAY'S RAVES
Dressing a star for a film can be a costly business for the film company, but not so when she chooses her clothes from London's swinging boutiques. Young actress Carol White, star of the film "Poor Cow" and the television production of "Cathy Come Home", did just that! When she went shopping for her latest film, "I'll Never Forget What's 'isname", she went straight to Biba Boutique in Kensington Church Street, London W.8. And instead of the bill running into thousands of pounds it only came to £80. None of Carol's outfits cost more than £8! 

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS
All screen images  by Sweet Jane from I'll Never Forget What's 'isname. Directed by Michael Winner. Original release date 18 December 1967, Starring Carol White, Oliver Reed, Marianne Faithfull, Wendy Craig, Edward Fox and Orson Welles. Carol White's outfits from Biba Kensington Church Street, Original text from "Today's Raves" RAVE magazine february 1968.

Saturday, 16 November 2013

The Birdcage Boutique Nottingham

Whenever the British boutique boom of the 1960s is mentioned, the focus is always immediately centred upon London and predominantly on the Carnaby Street and King's Road areas, nevertheless, as the boutique phenomenon wasn't merely confined to the Capital, I'm pretty sure that there were equally influential and important boutiques in some unlikely location off the beaten track in just about every city, town and village throughout the land at some point and that their legacy still lives on in the memories of the teenage clientele who frequented them..and yet, I feel that it is in someway a cultural loss that so many of them have not been properly documented, apart from The Birdcage in Nottingham which was covered quite extensively by Marnie Fogg in her book about the boutique culture of the era, perhaps saved from obscurity while others were lost, through its connection with the evergreen career of designer Paul Smith, who played a pivotal role in its origin and has therefore taken it through time with him.

The Birdcage was the brainchild of designer Janet Campbell, a native of Nottingham. On leaving college she spent some time working for other people in the fashion business in London, where she formulated the plan to open her own shop. Upon her return home in 1965, she gave herself a week to find a suitable property for the new venture and with the help of her friend Paul Smith quickly found the ideal location in an old tailors shop at the end of Bridlesmith Gate, paying twenty pounds a week for a six-month lease. The shop became an instant success, with a queue of people three rows deep outside on the opening day admiring the window display by Smith.  A year later in 1966, Janet Campbell expanded the business, moving the machinists from the first floor of the building to make way for a menswear department which she asked Paul to run, he in turn travelled to London to source labels which were previously unknown outside the city and over the next four years built up an extensive customer base for the boutique throughout the midlands until 1970 when he made his departure from The Birdcage to open his own shop, and the rest as they say is history.

The story of The Birdcage ends in Marnie Fogg's book with the departure of Paul Smith and as far as I can gather it continued to trade at the same location until it moved elsewhere in the late 1980s, but I have no idea what became of Janet Campbell or any of the other key figures within the staff from that point onward or how far into the next decade that it continued to exist. However, while researching the information for this post I did find an amazing array of other boutiques located in the Nottingham area which I wouldn't have been aware of otherwise, even though more boutiques opened in Nottingham during this period than in comparatively larger cities such as Manchester and Birmingham. The following are just a few names and details of what I have discovered so far.

Carnaby Styles which was situated in Wheelers Gate in the early 70s (sold Budgie Jackets, Tank Tops and Loon Pants); Pennnyfeathers owned by Mike & Shirley Benwell would later become known as Gladrags/Backstage; Peru run by a girl called Zena circa 1973;  Image Boutique in St Peter's Gate (sold Ossie Clark/Radley); Grapevine situated on Goldsmith Street next to Paraphernalia; Campus on Victoria Street (sold Jeff Banks & Mr Freedom); Madcap Boutique on Carrington Street circa '66 (ladies clothing made on the premises, shirts for guys made on request); Bus Stop (a Lee Bender outlet); Nonsuch situated in the Bridlesgate/Byard lane area (sold hippie clothing, afghan coats etc); Razzamatazz on Trent Bridge; Boogaloo (no details yet); I'll Leave It (high waisted flares, bowling shirts circa '73); and lastly Roxanne & Roxy Threads (1972) which were run by Robert Ivars Michailov-Mètra otherwise known as Roxy Rob, I've left this one until last because I have managed to unearth a little more information about it than the others which you can read for yourself here. And I suggest that you do! He's quite the character and the man has also made everything from loon pants in the late sixties to Oxford Bags in the early seventies for the Northern Soul scene enthusiasts.

                                    Advertisement for The Birdcage designed by Ian Longdon.

The staff of The Birdcage in Nottingham 1966: Ian Longdon, Paul Smith and Valerie Longdon. They're wearing graphic t-shirts, a new phenomenon sold through mail-order by the satirical magazine Private Eye. The shirts were designed by Nottingham art student Dave Humby.

Paul Smith photographed at his first boutique in Byard Lane, Nottingham, which he opened two weeks after leaving The Birdcage. It was a very small space measuring a minute 3 metres x 3 metres at the back of a tailor's shop, the rent was free for the first 3 months and fifty pence a week thereafter, the use of a damp basement was also included in the agreement which Paul eventually turned into an art gallery called The Pushpin, exhibiting limited edition lithographs by Warhol and Hockney. He remained here for the next four years, opening for business two days a week (fridays & Saurdays). A full scale recreation of this shop is included in the current  Paul Smith exhibition at The Design Museum.

Greg Longdon outside The Birdcage in Bridlesgate, the original Edwardian facade was reworked in maroon and gold to suggest that a trendy boutique now lay beyond the traditional tailor's shop. The Boutique sold garments designed and made by several people under their own label. Ian Longdon not only manufactured the clothes for the shop but also designed the publicity and packaging, constantly updating the style and presentation.

Birdcage swing ticket 1971, with thirties and forties cinematic references, illustrated by Ian Longdon.

                                                     Designs by Ian Longdon for The Birdcage.

Paul Smith *outside the London Electricity West End power station which was situated on the eastside of Carnaby Street and Ganton Street, 1965. Paul is  wearing a shirt made from Liberty's Tana Lawn print (a small floral print formerly used  for children's clothes), his boots are from Annello & Davide.

Update 6/11/2014Vintage Birdcage Boutique Nottingham metal letterpress print block recently sold on Ebay.                             


                                                                       IMAGE CREDITS
All relevant Birdcage Boutique information/images sourced & scanned by Sweet Jane from Boutique-a '60s cultural phenomenon by Marnie Fogg, published by Mitchell Beazley, 2003. Except for the final photo of the Birdcage Boutique letterpress print block which is courtesy of SeaSunshine99 on EbayAdditional location information regarding the Paul Smith photograph courtesy of Robert Orbach formerly of I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet.

The current collection of Liberty's classic Tana Lawn prints as worn by Paul Smith in the final photograph can be found here'Hello, My Name Is Paul Smith' a major exhibition celebrating the career of the designer which spans a forty year period runs at The Design Museum from the 15th of November 2013 - 9th March 2014. Further details can be found on The Paul Smith blog here.  'Hello, My Name Is Paul Smith-Fashion And Other Stories' the accompanying book to the exhibition is available to preview and purchase hereRoxy Threads original Northern Soul Oxford Bags hereyou'll find an extremely rare example of an original dress from the Birdcage Boutique circa 1966 hereAnd finally, view an interview with Janet Campbell owner of The Birdcage on the 2016 BBC Documentary Living in '66 - Robert Lindsay Remembers which I contributed to here.

Tuesday, 12 November 2013

Gebrauchsgraphik 1971: The Illustrations of Beate Broemse

This cover is one of my personal favourites from my collection of Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art magazines. Originally designed by Beate Broemse, an instructor at the Famous Artists School in Munich for a poster design contest organised by the Cinema International Corporation in 1970 to promote the release of the American feature film Medium Cool, in which author and director Haskell Wexler presented his first study of the growing spread of violence in the USA and the responsibility of the individual for the development of society as a whole. However, although it made the cover of this issue of Gebrauchsgraphik, it didn't actually win the competition, but it did take second prize to the overall winning design by Carl Steiner, the director of the FAS school. The school itself originated in the USA in 1948, where a number of well-known and successful graphic designers developed a teaching method permitting them to pass on their artistic experience via a correspondence course. And for that purpose they founded in an old mill in Westport Connecticut near New York the Famous Artists School and eventually went on to open centers worldwide. The teaching program (which still runs today) comprised of subjects such as industrial art, illustration, fashion design, painting, photography and the art of writing. The carefully selected teaching staff consisting of professionals with a talent for teaching rather than merely professional instructors, as the schools criteria expects its staff to be in constant contact with current industry practices.

                                                         Poster design by Beate Broemse.

                                                         Illustration by Beate Broemse.

                                                           Illustration by Beate Broemse.

                                                           Illustration by Beate Broemse.

                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art August 8/71 B3149 E. All illustrations by Beate Broemse. * The scan didn't quite translate the colour of the cover as it is, in reality the pink is actually a brighter shade of neon candy pink and the blue area is about a shade darker.

                             More information about The Famous Artist School can be found here
                  More information about Medium Cool by Haskell Wexler plus the original film trailer can 
                                 be found over on the excellent Criterion Collection site here.

Thursday, 7 November 2013

You Can Go All The Way In Terlenka 1969

The space-age fibre is here. Terlenka was born to travel, light and carefree. It's washable and needs no ironing. And the beauty of Terlenka is infinite in design and colour, in fashion, fit and feel. It's light years ahead of anything else on earth. Go places in Terlenka.

      Dress by St Honoré with silver fleur de lys braiding. Available in alternative colours. About 7½ gns.

Left: Black dress with horizontal silver stripes by St Honoré. Available in alternative colours about 7½ gns. Right: Dress by St Honoré featuring a gold lame collar and gold trim. Available in alternative colours about 8 gns.

                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS

                          All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from FLAIR  October 1969.

Saturday, 2 November 2013

What To Wear When The Lid's Off -1968

The problem is to stay smartly unruffled with the top off. A man can wear anything with his wardrobe of convertible cars except very long hair or a kilt. Girls, though they're less likely to own flashy cars, soon get to know all about them. So they wear trousers, culottes or shorts and protect their hair with jazzy scarves and hats, to catch the eye of bird-and car-fancier alike.

Left: White crepe trouser suit, belted cardigan style with diamante buttons and buckle, by Marrian McDonnell, 80 Sloane Avenue, London SW3, 18gns. Long, lurex scarf with tasselled fringe is splendid draught excluder, 4gns., from Liberty, Regent Street W1. Silver shoes, £6 16s. 6d., from Elliotts, 76 New Bond Street, W1 and branches. Diamante ring by Adrien Mann, 10s. 6d. Right: Snug-fitting evening suit with wide silk revers, $36, crinkled crepe poloneck shirt, £7 10s,. both from Club 92, Aquascutum, Regent Street, W1; Manchester and Bristol. Car; Chevrolet Corvette.

Left: Sturdy canvas tent coat and pleated culottes, both short, pocketed and proofed, £14 3s. 6d. by Young Jaeger, from Jaeger, 204 Regent Street, W1; Jersey pull-on hat £4 5s. (price includes matching scarf), from Malyard, 12 Ganton Street, W1 and Wardrobe at Michael's, Ealing. Printed chiffon scarf by Bernard Neville, £2 17s. 6d., from Liberty's. Gilt hoop earrings, by Adrien Mann, 7s. 6d. Gloves, 39s. 6d., from Fenwicks, New Bond Street, W1., and Newcastle. Fishnet stockings by, by Bonnie Doon, 1gn., from Simpsons. Gaberdine boots, 14gns., from Magli, 114 New Bond Street, W1.  Right: Pinstripe suit, £36, striped Viyella poloneck shirt, £5 15s. 6d., gloves, £2 9s. 6d., all from Aquascutum, London, Manchester and Bristol. Driver's gangster hat, 5gns., from Malyard. Accurist chronograph £26 17s. 6d., from Leslie Davis, 266 Oxford St W1; Muir, Manchester. Car; Jaguar E-Type

Left: Python jacket, waisted and slinky, by Ossie Clark, 25gn. with cream linen shorts, 3gn., from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3; all branches of fifth Avenue. Jungle-striped chiffon scarf, £2 17s 6d. by Bernard Neville from Liberty. Bamboo bangles by Adrian Mann, 7s. 6d. each. Gilt rings by Corocraft, 7s. 6d. each from Selfridges, Oxford Street, W1. Mesh knee socks by Bonnie Doon 1gn., from Fenwicks. Ochre brogues, 6gns., from Ronald Keith, 117 Oxford Street, W1., Manchester and Jersey.  Right: Almond green lambswool sweater, 5gns., and matched up French cotton trousers from 5gns., reversible suede to leather jacket, zippered pockets one side, poppered on reverse, £27, all from Cue at Austin Reed, 103 Regent St W1., Two-tone driving gloves, £2 15s., from Aquascutum. Sunglasses, 6gns.; write to Oliver Goldsmith, 60 Poland St, W1, for a list of stockists. Adrien Mann jewellery on these pages from Harrods, Knightsbridge SW1; Robinson & Cleaver, Belfast. Car; Alfa Romeo Spider 1750. 

                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from the Observer magazine 24 March 1968. Original article by Liz Smith. Photographed by Duffy in Europark's underground car park at Marble Arch.

Monday, 28 October 2013

Dramatic Undercover - Vogue 1965

                                                                  IMAGE CREDIT
                                       Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Vogue October 1965.

Friday, 25 October 2013

The Maxi Look - London 1970

           Maxi dresses in printed cotton. Left: from 5th Avenue. Right: from Wallis, King's Road.   

Two romantic style maxi dresses in transparent cotton voile, both from Bus Stop, Kensington Church Street.

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS  
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Jours de France August 1970. Editorial by Jean-Francois Bergery. Photographs by Luc Fournol.

Sunday, 20 October 2013

The last of the big suspenders 1967

                                                                 IMAGE CREDIT

                                     Image scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE  magazine april 1967

Thursday, 17 October 2013

Striped For Action 1969

These are the clothes to slip on and roar away in. Fearlessly. Because they're made in this-minute styles by Toplet. In that great give-and-taker knitted Courtelle. Running, jumping, standing still, they look good, feel good. And when the day is over, you just wash them through. Then it's ready, steady ,go, all over again.

 Left to right :Roll-neck sweater style CT/1432 about £6.2.6; trousers style CT/1433 about £5.15 both knitted by Toplet in Courtelle. Hooded dress knitted by Toplet in Courtelle, Style CT/1430. About £7.12.6. Shirt-neck dress knitted by Toplet in Courtelle, style CT/1431. About £7.12.6. Tunic and scarf style CT/1434 about £6.17; trouser style CT/1433 about £5.15. Both knitted by Toplet in Courtelle. 

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS

                 All  images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from FLAIR with fashion October 1969.
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